Preamble
We took a trip to Atlanta to go to the IWF (International Woodworking Federation) trade show, a big industry trade show of woodworking tools and manufacturing equipment for pretty much everything in your house. The plan was to see the show, and then do a five-night six-day backpacking loop in the Smoky Mountains on the way home. As you'll see, we get the loop done, but not in the number of days originally planned.
Colored by Day. Click link above for interactive map.
Friday August 26, 2022 9.3 Miles
Started at Fontana Marina and headed up the AT. Stopped by a little stream about 2 miles from the campsite 90 (Lost Cove) and talked to a guy who was hiking the BMT who wanted to get to the Fontana Hilton. Hiked 9.3 miles to camp about 4:00 PM. Nice area by the lake and just a few campers. Dinner was tortellini with fresh zucchini. Very good. Hit the hay before 8. Slept well.![]() |
Day 1 campsite |
I should note here that this is the end of day one and already we're not on the planned hike. Glide is not having a great day, and we were moving relatively slowly, so it was obvious that the intended campsite, another 5 miles away, was going to be too far of a hike for today. So, we stop short at campsite 90 and made plans to hike up to the AT via a different trail to get back on schedule.
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Gotta watch out for them bar's out there! |
Saturday August 27, 2022 6.8 Miles
We woke up about 8:00 AM. We must have been tuckered out. Oatmeal for breakfast. Broke camp and started hiking in the wrong direction for half a mile. The day was a bit over 6 miles total including our oops.
The trail included about 15 stream crossings. We tried to keep our shoes and socks dry on the first couple of crossings and then decided that it was too time-consuming, choosing to trudged through the remaining crossings with shoes and socks on. We will figure out how to dry them out later.
Arrived at our campsite #97 (Big Walnut). Very nice. Set up camp and saw first black bear. Todd took a walk to check out everything. Glide hung out at camp to keep the bears at bay. Dinner was Knorr rice with chicken and carrots. Note to Todd only add 1/4 cup of extra rice next time. Rain shower started at 7:00 PM so we went to
bed.
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Day 2 campsite. |
Sunday August 28, 2022 4.3 Miles
Got up and broke camp. Waded across the stream at the campsite without shoes as the water was pretty high. Made it to Spence Field shelter about 4:00 PM. The day was short but a steep 2300 ft climb. Talked to several day hikers that were just doing an out and back.
When we first arrived at the shelter, as we were having lunch and a day hiker passed by and headed down Eagle Creek. We commented to ourselves does he know where he is going? More on that shortly.
Attempted to dry wet socks and shoes from the stream crossings but the sun did not cooperate very well.
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Wet bandanna keeps stove alive |
Time for dinner, so Todd started making the pasta. However, the SnowPeak canister stove was not burning correctly (would die after a minute). He persevered (and some Google trail-side research) and got it cooked while nursing it along. Dinner was great. M&M's for dessert.
Shortly after sunset (2) section hikers showed up talking about the third member of their party who was behind them. They noisily fixed dinner and pitched their tents. Looks like we get the shelter to ourselves.
Just as it was getting dark, the hiker who had passed by the shelter at lunch, popped in and he said he got lost down Eagle Creek and could not find the trail, so he came back. He needed water (which he walked right by on the trail) and talked about hiking out to Cades Cove in the dark. We directed him to the water and convinced him to stay at the shelter. We gave him emergency blankets and our sit pads, so he had something to sleep on. He was from Ukraine, but living in the US for 10 years. His family is living in the war zone.
As everyone it's turning into bed, the two backpackers are hoping the missing third hiker found a place to camp, and they would find him in the morning.
Epic Day 4 - Sunday August 29, 2022 19.2 Miles
Every time the Ukrainian tossed and turned last night you could hear the crinkling of the space blankets. At least we knew he was still alive. He was up at first light, and he set out to retrace the steps to where he had started at Fontana. We won't see him again.
We got up at dawn as we have had enough of lying in bed for 12 hours. As we start fixing breakfast with the cranky stove, the two backpackers crawl out of their tents (they're not very social in the morning). One of the backpackers had a sleep pad that sounded like crunchy potato chips all night long. The conversation turns to the missing backpacker and plans to retrieve him. As we hit the trail at 9:00 AM, with plans to camp at Mollies Ridge shelter, we tell the backpackers that we will keep an eye out for their missing partner and let them know if we see him.
A quick 4-mile hike takes us to Russell Field shelter where we stop to take a break, eat a little food and, grab a bit of water. Mollies is another 4 miles with one big climb in the middle, so we leave with enough water to get to Mollies. A decision we will eventually regret. We text the backpackers reporting negative contact with their missing party.
We continue hiking on to Mollies. Shortly after leaving Russell, we encounter of black bear on the trail. He takes one look at us and leaves. We continue to Mollies. The last big climb was in the middle (a 1200 foot climb) of this section and it was a slow grind up. We arrive at Molly's (deserted like Russell) with plans for a long lunch break and a discussion about continuing to Campsite 112. It is only noon and we do not want to just hang out here all afternoon followed by 12 hours of laying in bed.
Finished lunch and Pilot grabs the water gear and heads off to the shelter spring. He returns shortly with no water and tales of the feral pigs turning the spring into a hog wallow. No water here. ☹ The decision is made to press on to 112 and hope to find a water source on the way.
A text message from the Spence backpackers tells us that their missing party had been located. He is grumpy, but OK.
We head out for the five mile’ish downhill hike (after a brief rain shower) and hope to be there by 5:00 PM. We hear some feral pigs and saw one in the brush that scared the crap out of us. No water was found along the way and the conversation to what to do there if there's no water at 112.
We arrived at 112 before 5:00 PM. Both of us don't have warm fuzzy feelings about the campsite. The spring at this campsite was running barely above a trickle and pretty dirty. We managed to filter a liter or so of water and eat our final orange. We decided to hike out the last four and a half mile, hoping to reach the trailhead by sunset. It was a grind heading down the trail with a few surprise uphill sections. Again, the trail does not provide. No water.
When we leave the ridge where the pigs have destroyed the ground vegetation and move into an area where the pigs have not been, there is now a lush green healthy forest floor.
We arrived exhausted at the trailhead at sunset. Just before the trailhead, Pilot stumbled and as he caught himself with his hiking poles, he broke the tip off one of them. Road walk the mile to Fontana dam visitor center and procure some additional water. Take a break and decide to push on the 1 1/2-mile road walk back to the truck at the marina.
Took showers back at the Fontana shelter. Then we were on a mission for food. We drove up Deals Gap and the Tail of the Dragon with a truck and trailer. Just a tad dicey. Stop and get ice in Marysville. Drive on to Knoxville to a very crowded Pilot truck stop. Skip that one and went to the TA truck stop which was very nice. Slept well.
19.2 miles for the day! Three days (planned) hiking crammed into a single day.
Hike Total: 39.6 Miles
Tuesday August 30, 2022
Got up early and headed out. Stopped at Kroger and picked up some bananas and muffins. Headed home. Stop at Ikea in Columbus.
More trip photos here on SmugMug
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Lunch break on the way home. |